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Silver jewellery workshop in Turin: how your first ring is made

·6 min·Team Handsome

In Turin you can make a silver ring in a single session, and two pages promising exactly the same thing, "you leave with your own ring", can hide two very different experiences: in one you cut, shape and solder; in the other you pick the width, swing the hammer a few times and the Maker does the rest while you watch. Neither is a scam. But you should know which one you are booking before you pay.

What you take home is almost always a band in sterling silver, 925: 92.5% silver and the rest copper, because pure silver is too soft for a ring you wear every day. It can be smooth, hammered, satin or mirror-polished, narrow or wide. What changes the price, the duration and how happy you are at the end is not the design you choose: it is how much of the work passes through your own hands, and where your teacher's help stops.

What actually happens during the day

The order is always the same, because metal allows no shortcuts: each stage prepares the next, and if you skip one it shows at the end. First the finger is measured, then you calculate how much metal you need. The length is not the same as the circumference of your finger: the ring has a thickness, and the outer edge travels further than the inner one, so the calculation is based on the average diameter. That is the first moment you realise a ring is a geometry problem before it is a matter of taste.

  • Measuring. You try the rings on the sizer until one goes on with slight resistance and passes the knuckle without having to pull it. In Italy the size number usually corresponds to the inner circumference in millimetres minus forty.
  • Cutting. From sheet or wire you cut the calculated length with a jeweller's saw and a fine blade. This is where most blades snap, and where nothing helps except patience.
  • Shaping. The metal is bent with pliers and then hammered on a tapered mandrel with a nylon or horn hammer that leaves no marks. The two ends must meet exactly: if light passes between them, the solder will not hold.
  • Soldering. Flux on the joint, a small piece of solder alloy, torch. The alloy melts at a lower temperature than silver and runs into the seam by capillary action: if there is no seam, or it is too wide, it will not run.
  • Pickling and filing. After the heat the piece comes out dark and dull; an acid bath whitens it. Then file and abrasive papers in increasing grits to remove excess solder and working marks.
  • Polishing. Abrasive compound on felt or brush, or a tumbler. This is the stage nobody accounts for, and the one that decides how the ring looks in the light.

Soldering is where you find out if the course is well run

Almost everything else can be fixed: a crooked file stroke can be taken back, a dull polish can be redone. Soldering cannot. If the two ends are not perfectly closed, a line or a gap stays there forever. If you overheat, silver goes from red to collapse in an instant and the ring crumples. If the piece is dirty or the flux is badly applied, the alloy balls up instead of running into the joint. A well-run course puts you in front of the torch and teaches you to watch the colour of the metal rather than the clock. A badly run one solders for you "because that is the dangerous part", and at that moment the ring stops being yours. The question is always the same: do I hold the torch myself, and how many times?

A well-made ring is one where you can no longer find the point at which the metal was closed.

Courses where you work, courses where you watch

Both formats make sense, but they serve different purposes. The one where you do everything yourself is slower, more frustrating, and leaves you an imperfect piece you can explain millimetre by millimetre. The guided one, where the Maker prepares a part-finished piece and steps in on the critical stages, is perfect for a gift, for anyone short of time, or for anyone with a problem in their hands. The flaw is not the format, it is failing to declare it. The signals are readable in advance: how many people share each bench and each torch, whether every participant gets their own file and saw, whether the page talks about a piece to "personalise" rather than a piece to build. If the page does not say so, the information is missing: treat that as a signal too. This applies to silver as much as to any other material, as explained in how to choose the right workshop.

Fingers do not have a fixed size. In the cold or in the morning they are thinner; at the end of a summer day, after salty food or exercise, they are more swollen. A size taken in a cold room in winter gives you a ring that in summer will not pass the knuckle. Take the measurement with warm, rested hands, and if you are between two sizes say so to the Maker: at the same size number, a wide band fits tighter than a thin one, because it sits on a longer stretch of the finger.

Is the silver included, and up to what weight

Silver is raw material and it is bought by the gram. The grams depend on width times thickness times length: a thin band weighs a fraction of a wide, solid one, and somebody pays that difference. So there are two questions, not one: is the silver included in the price, and up to how many grams? If I want it wider or thicker, is there a surcharge per gram? One thing that surprises first-timers: the filings are not thrown away. In many studios they fall into the leather apron stretched under the bench and are collected, because that is silver too. If the workshop page says nothing about included material, the price you see is not yet the final price: what makes the bill go up or down in a studio is set out in full in what an artisan workshop really costs.

The wrong size and engraving: the two questions nobody asks

Until you have soldered and filed, a wrong size can still be corrected: you widen it by hammering on the mandrel, or you cut a piece out and solder it again. Afterwards, every correction becomes a second job and it costs money. So the question to ask yourself before booking is a practical one: if I get the size wrong on the day, is there silver to start again, and who pays for the extra metal? Some studios factor it in, others do not, and neither answer is wrong. Not knowing which one applies to you is.

On engraving there is a technical rule that changes the whole day: letters struck with punches come out far better while the metal is still straight, before shaping. On a closed ring you need a steel mandrel and a steady hand, and every crooked strike is permanent. That means a date or two initials must be decided at the start of the course, not at the end when you are already pleased with the piece. Check whether engraving is included, how many characters, and by what method: punches produce block capitals, cursive means hand engraving with a graver, which is a different skill. Oxidising the letters, the black that stays in the grooves and makes them readable, is another extra step.

Booking in Turin without surprises

Turin has a long manufacturing history, and a silversmithing studio can be anywhere: in the centre, in Vanchiglia, in San Salvario or in Borgo Vecchio Campidoglio. Before paying, check two things on the workshop page. The first is where it actually takes place and how you get there: if it is in an inner courtyard, on a floor without a lift or far from the tram, better to know now. The second is what to bring, keeping in mind that near a torch you need tied-back hair, closed shoes and no synthetic fabrics. On the practical side, on Handsome you book by paying a deposit online and pay the balance in the studio on the day of the workshop; the cancellation conditions are written on each workshop page, so read them before, not after. If it is a gift, the gift card makes more sense: it covers the whole workshop, is valid for twelve months and lets the recipient pick the date. If you are already a group, there are private events with an agreed date: that is the right format for a birthday or for anyone who wants to work without rushing.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need experience to make a silver ring in one day?
No, and you do not need to be especially good with your hands either. Two skills are required: sawing reasonably straight and hammering without using force. The stage that scares people most, the torch, is also the one where you are watched most closely. If you have never held a file it does not change the result: it only changes how long you need to get going.
How long does a ring-making course last?
It depends on how much of the work you do. Polishing and waiting for the torch take the time, not cutting. The duration is stated on the workshop page: if it is not there, the information is missing, and "a day" can mean anything.
Can the ring be resized later?
A plain band, yes: a goldsmith cuts and re-solders it to make it smaller, or stretches it on the mandrel. On a hammered, engraved or textured band the repair always leaves a trace, because you are working on a finished surface. It is a separate job you pay for, so it is worth taking all the time you need over the measurement.
Does sterling silver tarnish, and how do you clean it?
Yes, it reacts with sulphur present in the air, in some foods and in several cosmetics. It is surface tarnish, not wear: the ring is not deteriorating. Remove it with a silver cloth or a dedicated paste; avoid kitchen abrasives, which scratch the polish achieved in the studio. Keeping it in a closed pouch slows the process down considerably.

Browse the pages of the silversmithing studios in Turin and pick the one where you do the work.

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